– Set you near and far focus points slightly before and after the respective focus points, that is one you set your close focus exactly, shift the focus slightly closer – this ensures that everything from front to back is in focus if anything shifts during the sequence. – trigger the camera remotely to cut down on vibrations – this can be done with the new firmware feature on the XF using an air remote.sync trigger – Use the Seismograph feature on the XF body to assess if there’s any movement of the camera, often standing next to the camera on a wood floor can move the camera during the sequence of exposures! – When using flash lighting for you stack be sure to use a good quality studio pack and heads, moreover if using say the Profoto 10A make sure it’s set to Normal and not freeze, this will ensure the best colour temperature consistency from shot to shot. Single shot f11 (left) stacked 20 shots (right)
The XF will capture the images from the distant focus point to the near focus point – Use the focus map (green overlay) in capture one to get an idea of how much of each capture in focus and make sure there’s at least some overlap.Press the rear user button to start the sequence of captures.(the smaller the subject generally the more frames you will need, sometimes hundreds of frames!) Dial in the number of captures you require using the rear dial.
Us the same method to find the near focus (flower icon) point – saving the point with the rear key.Save the point using the front key (a number will show next to the far focus point when saved) Use Live View on the digi back (zoom into 100%) to set Far focus (mountain icon) point (make sure the lens is set to AF) – you can scroll the side dial and fine tune by scrolling the front dial.There are 3 factors to consider 1) Far focus point 2) Near focus point 3) total number of shots On the XF body menu scroll through to Tools/Focus stack (alternatively you can swipe the XF top screen to show the focus stack screen).You’ll need a Phase One XF body (along with Phase digi back and lens) no special tripod or head is needed – but something sturdy is essential.
Often when shooting still-life, even when stopped down to f16 (you don’t want to go further than that with digi as you start to get diffraction issues) you can’t get front to back focus in one shot.īefore photographers used to use complicated motorised tripod heads and custom software, involving typing in all data including circles or confusion to get the stack to work! This is an issue with food photography, for example, you can imagine the lettuce slowly wilting…įocus stacking allows you to shoot multiple images and have them rendered into one image with sharpness throughout the desired focus range.
ZOOM IN HELICON REMOTE HOW TO
A quick look at how to use focus stacking on the Phase One XF system…
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